The rhythm of the music keeps time with the racing of my heart as I soak in the sights and sounds and smells of the cramped medina streets. Drums beat as the call to prayer from the mosque ahead is mixed with the rap music flowing out from a music shop. Hundreds of colors swirl around me as my eyes scan the narrow lanes I pass, and the smell of orange oil mixed with burning incense reaches my nose. I glance through the crowd, in awe of the bustling interactions taking place – bargaining, laughing, crying, learning, and living. I place the viewfinder to my right eye and snap a progression of candid photos, trying to capture all the beauty and life within one moment. It is simply impossible. Human senses are simply not equipped to handle this much living.
Morocco is a country of mystery and oriental intrigue to most Americans. We see Humphrey Bogart wooing Ingrid Bergman while fighting Nazis in Casablanca, picture men in long blue turbans riding camels through the desert like in the film Lawrence of Arabia (which was filmed in Morocco), and flocks of women covered in black headscarves. But do we really know the real Morocco?
This January, for the first time, Whittier College sent a group of students to Morocco for Jan Term. The group, team taught by Gary Libman and Marilyn Gottschall, spent three weeks in the north-east city of Fez, living with Moroccan families, studying colloquial Moroccan Arabic, and discovering what it is to be Moroccan. Although we had taken a course in the fall to make us knowledgeable of the history and culture of Morocco, nothing could have prepared us for the rich culture we were submerged into. Here are the top 10 most interesting things we learned about while in Morocco:
(10) Transportation. Camels are not the normal mode of transportation. Contrary to popular movies, most Moroccans do not ride camels on a daily basis. Morocco is a modern developing country, driving old Mercedes and European-made cars through the city. In the old medina, however, cars do not fit in the narrow streets, so donkeys and motorbikes are seen frequently.
(9) Languages. Most people our group encountered spoke more than two languages! In Morocco, classical Arabic and French are taught in schools from a very young age, because both languages are national languages, and colloquial Arabic (Darija) is spoken at home. When entering into secondary school, students are given the option of more languages, including Spanish and Berber (the native North African language). In my household in Morocco, Classical Arabic, French, Darija, and English were all understood and basically spoken.
(8) Henna. Henna is a type of natural dye that is used to color hair and decorate hands and feet with intricate designs. Only women wear or use henna, usually during festive celebrations such as marriages. More and more it is becoming a tradition of the past, as many younger Moroccan women look towards Europe and stop using traditional henna.
(7) Food. All I can say is bread, bread, and more bread! Every meal is eaten with bread, with tea or coffee. Pork is not eaten in Morocco because it is forbidden in Islam, but Chicken and Beef is common. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day, like Europe, and children come home from school to eat with the family. Most meals are eaten off of one mutual plate, with bread being used as a type of utensil, instead of forks. Moroccan tea is served with every meal and most families finish lunch with some type of citrus.
(6) Dress. The styles in Morocco are very westernized and diverse. Most people in the younger generation wear similar clothing to those in Europe and America, with modesty guiding their tastes. It is unusual to see girls in skimpy clothing, but it is not unheard of in some of the larger cities. Headscarves are common, but not mandatory, and many women opt not to wear them. Others pick out colorful scarves and pin them with flashy brooches, adding a western style to the traditional garment. Most men take up the European styles, with “fake” designer jeans being a popular wear as well as French-style barretts.
(5) Music. Music is very popular and diverse in Moroccan culture. Moroccans have adopted much of the Western music, such as Akon and Celine Dion (both extremely popular), but have also stuck to their African roots. At any given cd shop, one can find Western and Moroccan forms of rap, hip hop, rock, and heavy metal, European pop, Chaabi and Arabic dance mixes, recordings of the Qur’an, and Sufi mystical music. Each has their own place in society and music frequents the streets where ever you are.
(4) Hammam. A hammam is a public bath house where Moroccan men and women (at separate times) go to wash off, clean up, and gossip with friends. Most of the group was able to experience the hammam at least once during our trip. There are three rooms – a cold room, a warm room, and a hot room – with benches lining the walls. Water is brought to you as you sit on the benches and, using a cup, you wash and soak in the water and steam that fills the room. People usually stay in for hours and, for women, this is an arena for socializing that they do not usually have out on the streets.
(3) The medina. The old neighborhood of every city in Morocco, the medina is the center of Moroccan life. The medina is usually a neighborhood of narrow, twisty streets, used to confuse the colonizers and tourists alike. Within the medina you will find anything you are looking for from shoes to food to tea pots. Within each medina, there are areas for different types of craftsmanship, usually with a fountain and mosque nearby.
(2) The call to prayer. This was one of my fondest memories of Morocco. The call to prayer is recited from every mosque minaret in Morocco, which is usually about every mile or so away from one another. The call is done five times a day, in accordance with the second Islamic pillar. The verse begins, “Allahu Akbar. Allahu Akbar (God is the Greatest. God is the Greatest.)” and ends with “la ilaha illallah (There is no God but Allah.)” The call to prayer is the profession of the first pillar of Islam, which is the profession of the faith.
(1) The people. The best thing about Morocco is its people. Moroccans are some of the nicest people I have ever met. They will go out of their way to help a stranger and treat every person they encounter as their brother. In the public sphere, people may come off as rude and pushy, but really this is just the way to get around. There are no such things as lines, just pushing, yet there I never once saw anyone get angry. Instead, they are kind in almost all aspects of life. These people exemplify what it means to be a good neighbor, whether the neighbor is from another town or another country.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Monday, February 2, 2009
Photos of Casablanca friends
My favorite photo - Mehdi and I
Zouheir, Cameron, and I
Zouheir, me, Mehdi, Dami, and Amine
Mehdi and Dami
.....because it is funny to see the Kernel in Arabic......
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
My final day
There is so much to write about and so little time!I will write a great deal more when I get home but for now here goes.
We spent two days in Marrakesh. We took in the sights of the medina, ate a ton of gelato, took pictures with a monkey and snakes, and saw two films in arabic and french. We also went to a dance club where I go to dance the night away with a bunch of people we met. I got back exausted but happy. I love dancing! We had a blast!!
Next we took the train to Casablanca. We met some great people on the train and we hung out with them today. Lqst night we went to a night club next to our hotel. It was a bunch of old men, a few hookers, and us dancing to salsa and arabic music. It was fun but odd. It was not as good as the club in Marrakesh. Today we walked through the medina and got lunch at a street cafe. For a dollar we got an egg sandwich and fries. I am going to miss the prices here! Then; the boys from the train called, and we all met to hang out. They walked with us through the city and showed us all the sights. I got to see many beautiful parts of Casablanca that I would never have found without the help of Amine, Mehdi, and Zouheir. We went to a cafe and I was actually able to feel comfortable going in as a woman. My whole time in Morocco, this was the first time I had sat down in a cafe. We also got some great burgers for dinner.
It was a great last night in Morocco! Now I am excited to come home. I have the butterflies in my stomach and I cannot wait to see the people I have missed. As much as I love Morocco, it is hard to know that life still goes on at home without me and that I have missed so much. Hopefully life has not changed too awful much...
We spent two days in Marrakesh. We took in the sights of the medina, ate a ton of gelato, took pictures with a monkey and snakes, and saw two films in arabic and french. We also went to a dance club where I go to dance the night away with a bunch of people we met. I got back exausted but happy. I love dancing! We had a blast!!
Next we took the train to Casablanca. We met some great people on the train and we hung out with them today. Lqst night we went to a night club next to our hotel. It was a bunch of old men, a few hookers, and us dancing to salsa and arabic music. It was fun but odd. It was not as good as the club in Marrakesh. Today we walked through the medina and got lunch at a street cafe. For a dollar we got an egg sandwich and fries. I am going to miss the prices here! Then; the boys from the train called, and we all met to hang out. They walked with us through the city and showed us all the sights. I got to see many beautiful parts of Casablanca that I would never have found without the help of Amine, Mehdi, and Zouheir. We went to a cafe and I was actually able to feel comfortable going in as a woman. My whole time in Morocco, this was the first time I had sat down in a cafe. We also got some great burgers for dinner.
It was a great last night in Morocco! Now I am excited to come home. I have the butterflies in my stomach and I cannot wait to see the people I have missed. As much as I love Morocco, it is hard to know that life still goes on at home without me and that I have missed so much. Hopefully life has not changed too awful much...
Friday, January 23, 2009
Last day in Fes
This is my final day in the home of my family that I love so much. I feel as if I am going to lose a part of me when I get on that train. I hate to say it, but it hurts worse to leave here than it did to leave home. I will miss the people, the fun "Muzziene" teacher, the long walk to school, the call to pray outside my window, the late night tongue twisters, the cards games, the jokes of Rayan, and everything else that makes this place wonderful.
I will be in Morocco for 5 days after I leave for home, but I still feel sad leaving my wonderful family and life Ive created here in one short month.
I will count the days till I return.....
I will be in Morocco for 5 days after I leave for home, but I still feel sad leaving my wonderful family and life Ive created here in one short month.
I will count the days till I return.....
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
more on the dance party
so Marilyn stayed for a little while before she had to leave. Anna came about 10 minutes later and we tried to get her to dance too, but to no avail. Then all the kids went into Simo's room and went on the internet. We listened to music, Sara and I sang together, and we took more photos. We listened to Tokio Hotel (pretty good) which is Sara's favorite band.
We finally had to leave at around 8 to get home.
Next day.....
Sunday I met Azzedinne at the McDonalds down the street (the only McDonalds in all of Fes) and we walked to the church that he goes to. He is Muslim, but he likes to go visit other places of worship like I do. When we walked in I felt like I had hit the jackpot of white people. So this is where they all hang out??!! Everyone was speaking English and most were Americans. It was really a shock. We got tea, checked out the library of books that they have for anyone who wants them, and then snuck in the back of the church to listen to the French service. The music was so beautiful. All the people in the choir were African, so the music took on a southern baptist type vibe, but in French. I started singing along, even though I didn't know the song. It was easy enough to understand with my limited french, and it was obviously Christian so I got the theme.
After, we met Chaimae outside of the bank and then walked to the medina. We didn't have a plan of any sort other than just to hang out. I took them to cafe clock and showed Azzedinne the books shelves that are full of free trading books. We got drinks, took photos of the view from the roof, and then began to walk back. I was teasing Azz. because he said he knew where cafe clock was and ended up walking us in the completely wrong direction. Humuck! (crazy)!
I called Anna to see where she was and to my surprise she was in Meknes. Sara's family saw her walking home and put her in their van and took her on a picnic to Meknes. hahahahaha. When they got home, we went downstairs to say hi. I put on Abdul Ali's slippers and a baggy sweater to go outside. It turns out we were going somewhere because they put me in the back of the van and we started driving. I had no money, no jacket, and no shoes!!!!!
Oh yeah - and a side note - there is no law that says that you have to have seats in the back, so we were sitting on the floor of the van with one wheelie chair tied to the drivers seat and one stool. CRAZINESS
So, when the car stopped we were at the supermarket - which is like a super Walmart at home. We got out of the car and proceeded to walk throughout the store IN MY SLIPPERS. Did I mention Abdul Ali has smaller feet than me!?! We ran into Matt and Donovan there too, and their homestay dad. We went down the aisles spraying perfume and putting on makeup, and then we went back to the car. We stood out in the parking lot for a while and played volleyball with a bouncy ball they had in the backseat, then we piled back in the van and left. The entire ride we listened to Spanish and Arabic music - I guess I would call it dance/electronica stuff. We danced in the back seat, swaying back and forth, clapping, and singing at the tops of our lungs. It was wonderful. We stopped at a lookout point and took some photos, then ran back and hopped into the van. By the time we got home we were in histarics laughing, and I could not for the life of me tell you exactly why.
It was the most random experience of my life and I loved it!
I love Chaimae and Huda and Sara and Malika and Leila and I want to adopt them and bring them home with me!!!!!!
I don't want to miss them.....but I leave Friday....
this is cruel!
We finally had to leave at around 8 to get home.
Next day.....
Sunday I met Azzedinne at the McDonalds down the street (the only McDonalds in all of Fes) and we walked to the church that he goes to. He is Muslim, but he likes to go visit other places of worship like I do. When we walked in I felt like I had hit the jackpot of white people. So this is where they all hang out??!! Everyone was speaking English and most were Americans. It was really a shock. We got tea, checked out the library of books that they have for anyone who wants them, and then snuck in the back of the church to listen to the French service. The music was so beautiful. All the people in the choir were African, so the music took on a southern baptist type vibe, but in French. I started singing along, even though I didn't know the song. It was easy enough to understand with my limited french, and it was obviously Christian so I got the theme.
After, we met Chaimae outside of the bank and then walked to the medina. We didn't have a plan of any sort other than just to hang out. I took them to cafe clock and showed Azzedinne the books shelves that are full of free trading books. We got drinks, took photos of the view from the roof, and then began to walk back. I was teasing Azz. because he said he knew where cafe clock was and ended up walking us in the completely wrong direction. Humuck! (crazy)!
I called Anna to see where she was and to my surprise she was in Meknes. Sara's family saw her walking home and put her in their van and took her on a picnic to Meknes. hahahahaha. When they got home, we went downstairs to say hi. I put on Abdul Ali's slippers and a baggy sweater to go outside. It turns out we were going somewhere because they put me in the back of the van and we started driving. I had no money, no jacket, and no shoes!!!!!
Oh yeah - and a side note - there is no law that says that you have to have seats in the back, so we were sitting on the floor of the van with one wheelie chair tied to the drivers seat and one stool. CRAZINESS
So, when the car stopped we were at the supermarket - which is like a super Walmart at home. We got out of the car and proceeded to walk throughout the store IN MY SLIPPERS. Did I mention Abdul Ali has smaller feet than me!?! We ran into Matt and Donovan there too, and their homestay dad. We went down the aisles spraying perfume and putting on makeup, and then we went back to the car. We stood out in the parking lot for a while and played volleyball with a bouncy ball they had in the backseat, then we piled back in the van and left. The entire ride we listened to Spanish and Arabic music - I guess I would call it dance/electronica stuff. We danced in the back seat, swaying back and forth, clapping, and singing at the tops of our lungs. It was wonderful. We stopped at a lookout point and took some photos, then ran back and hopped into the van. By the time we got home we were in histarics laughing, and I could not for the life of me tell you exactly why.
It was the most random experience of my life and I loved it!
I love Chaimae and Huda and Sara and Malika and Leila and I want to adopt them and bring them home with me!!!!!!
I don't want to miss them.....but I leave Friday....
this is cruel!
Monday, January 19, 2009
So Saturday night I was invited to go see Malika and Sara at their home near the big bank on Hassan II. We went over at around 3:30. I had the time of my life. First we had tea and little cookies, followed by what they called Moroccan pizza (which was dough and spicy veggies - yummy). I met Malika's sister who spoke English and Sara's friend Uda, who is studying to become a beautician. Once I finished (or tried to finish) all the food they packed onto my plate, the music was turned up and I was told to get up and dance. Gosh I was too full, but I tried. They tried to get me to belly dance but my hips move to salsa more that Moroccan beats so it took a while. Now I know how to shake my hips at a bizillion miles a hour (slight exaggeration of course) and I know how to move to the Moroccan beats. We danced forever and ever, stripping off layers and layers because we were getting hot dancing. Malika and Leila took off their head scarves and tied them around their waists. They grabbed one for me and then showed me how to bounce the scarf up and down to the music with my hips, while moving my hands, and pretending to sing the words in Arabic that I could hardly pronounce. Uda is amazing at it, and she has such control that she hardly looks like she is trying. Sara can move her tummy like Shakira and she is wonderful at club style dancing. Malika can move her hips fast than any woman I have seen. I was challenged just to keep up. We stopped for sips of water here and there, but mostly just kept on dancing with the scarves around our hips. Malika and I danced around the tables in the salon, chasing one another with our hips. It was so much fun and we never stopped laughing.
Then, the girls got the idea to play dress up - with me! I was the Barbie as I was dressed in 6 different outfits with Malika's jewelry from her wedding. They put on scarves,jalabas, and beautiful tunics. Then we had a photo shoot. Simo (Sara's brother) was the photographer as I sat and posed with all these different outfits on. I was cracking up. Then Marilyn called because she had my camera with her. (YAY MY TRAVELING CAMERA IS BACK) We met her downstairs and invited her up, where she was bombarded with tea and food galore. She could only stay a little while but we took some photos and she saw me dressed up. Did I mention I went down stairs to get her dressed up with "good morning" slippers on my feet??? Yah!
oh shoot....class starts in 4 minutes......aaaaaaaaa
Then, the girls got the idea to play dress up - with me! I was the Barbie as I was dressed in 6 different outfits with Malika's jewelry from her wedding. They put on scarves,jalabas, and beautiful tunics. Then we had a photo shoot. Simo (Sara's brother) was the photographer as I sat and posed with all these different outfits on. I was cracking up. Then Marilyn called because she had my camera with her. (YAY MY TRAVELING CAMERA IS BACK) We met her downstairs and invited her up, where she was bombarded with tea and food galore. She could only stay a little while but we took some photos and she saw me dressed up. Did I mention I went down stairs to get her dressed up with "good morning" slippers on my feet??? Yah!
oh shoot....class starts in 4 minutes......aaaaaaaaa
Saturday, January 17, 2009
January 17
Last night I went to a play in Arabic. It was pretty interesting not knowing what was going on. Better yet, it was an adaptation of a French play with a Moroccan feel, which made it even better! One of the main characters was a man dressed as a "Western" woman. He had balloons for boobs that kept popping on stage. It was hilarious to watch as he pulled about a hundred balloons out of his purse and tried fixing his rack. Also, the set was perfect. The house was a big fez hat and the "gentleman" was dressed as a rich saudi.
I went with a friend I met here in Morocco. His name is Azzeddine and he is a 24 year old grad student. He is Berber and speaks 4 languages. WOW I can only speak one and say a few words in some others! He is also a writer and it interested in studying religion and culture, especially America. He helped translate some of the play for us, but it was fun just watching the acting.
I forgot my camera at Mohammed Bennis' house on Wednesday and I am still running around from person to person trying to get it back. I know it was found and I know it is safe, but people keep passing it around and I keep missing it. I called bennis (well leila called him because he only speaks Durizian) and he said to call back later, but when I did he had already given it to someone at AILF. So now I am waiting until AILF to open at 3 so I can get it back. N shAhela! If God wills it!
Tonight I go to one of Leila's friends house for a visit. It is an honor to be invited over as a stranger in this culture, so I cant wait! Tomorrow we go to the hamaam once again!
I only have one week left with my family and less than two weeks till I fly home. I hope the time goes by slowly. I don't want to leave just yet...
I went with a friend I met here in Morocco. His name is Azzeddine and he is a 24 year old grad student. He is Berber and speaks 4 languages. WOW I can only speak one and say a few words in some others! He is also a writer and it interested in studying religion and culture, especially America. He helped translate some of the play for us, but it was fun just watching the acting.
I forgot my camera at Mohammed Bennis' house on Wednesday and I am still running around from person to person trying to get it back. I know it was found and I know it is safe, but people keep passing it around and I keep missing it. I called bennis (well leila called him because he only speaks Durizian) and he said to call back later, but when I did he had already given it to someone at AILF. So now I am waiting until AILF to open at 3 so I can get it back. N shAhela! If God wills it!
Tonight I go to one of Leila's friends house for a visit. It is an honor to be invited over as a stranger in this culture, so I cant wait! Tomorrow we go to the hamaam once again!
I only have one week left with my family and less than two weeks till I fly home. I hope the time goes by slowly. I don't want to leave just yet...
Thursday, January 15, 2009
THE KING
So, I did see the king after all! Yesterday we were running late to class so we hopped into a taxi, only to be stopped two blocks down the road by a blockade. We had to get out of the taxi and run to try to make it to class. We did not get very far. When we got to Hassan II (a street), we couldn't believe the number of people lining the streets. I guess the King was doing another procession and we wanted to stay, but again we didn't know how long it would be and we had to be to class in 15 minutes. We crossed the street and island in the middle to get to the side where the traffic was flowing. We caught a taxi there and got it just as the procession began. The taxi drove slowly as BMW's and Mercedes' drove down the other side of the street. After about 6 cars, we saw King Mohamed VI standing up through the sunroof of a Mercedes, with his bodyguards hanging out of each open door. He was driving really fast, and waving as he went, so we only saw him for about 10 seconds, but it was still a magnificent sight.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Recapping time....
Got some interview lined up....
eating WAY too much - its all carbs and sugar which is NOT GOOD
It is still 10 degrees C here....
Yesterday the King came to Fes. We didn't see him come in because they wouldn't tell us when he was coming. There were guards on every corner and flags every five feet. They even painted the sidewalks and put up photos of the King everywhere for his arrival. And no one threw shoes at their head of state (although I think the guards would have shot anyone down who tried so maybe thats why). All in all he is very well liked for his policies and connections to the Moroccan people. Too bad we didn't see the procession!
I saw a small protest the other day near the mosque imam ali about the Israeli/Pakistan conflict. Everyone here is in support of Pakistan (no duh) and even people who are not politicos have signs against Israel. I just think both sides should stop killing. How about we give Gaza to the Swiss? No one hates the Swiss!
Got some interview lined up....
eating WAY too much - its all carbs and sugar which is NOT GOOD
It is still 10 degrees C here....
Yesterday the King came to Fes. We didn't see him come in because they wouldn't tell us when he was coming. There were guards on every corner and flags every five feet. They even painted the sidewalks and put up photos of the King everywhere for his arrival. And no one threw shoes at their head of state (although I think the guards would have shot anyone down who tried so maybe thats why). All in all he is very well liked for his policies and connections to the Moroccan people. Too bad we didn't see the procession!
I saw a small protest the other day near the mosque imam ali about the Israeli/Pakistan conflict. Everyone here is in support of Pakistan (no duh) and even people who are not politicos have signs against Israel. I just think both sides should stop killing. How about we give Gaza to the Swiss? No one hates the Swiss!
Monday, January 12, 2009
Roman bathing in Morocco
Friday night we went to the Hamaam in Meknes. Wow what an interesting experience. I don't think Ive been in a room with so many naked strangers in my life, even in the LV drama department.
The hamaam is the Moroccan bath house. It can be a Roman type, which is like a steam room with buckets of water, or a Turkish style with pools that you sit in. We went to the Roman style hamaam. Typically there are 3 rooms - the hot room, the medium room, and the cold room. You walk into the hamaam and there is a seating area where you strip and leave your clothes. You must keep on your underwear, but nothing else. We tried going in with undershirts and they made us strip them off in the medium room and them took them away. The cold room is the first room you enter and it is slightly warmer than outside, which is freezing!!!! Next you enter the medium room, where most people hang out. We stayed in this room, which was steaming, but comfortable. The hot room was so hot it was hard to breathe in the steam, but women were in that room too. We sat on short tiles benches that lines the walls and women (in only undies mind you) carried over buckets of hot and cold water. We were told to mix the temperatures and wash ourselves.
At first we didn't do anything but stare. We were practically naked, with 20 or so conservative Muslim women staring back at us all in their underwear. At first I was self conscious, but I got over that real quick when one of the women came over, sat next to me, and began scrubbing me. No joke! Here I am, with a naked woman holding my arm out on her chest and scrubbing my dead skin off. I was more than shocked, but none of the other Moroccans were, so I assumed this was normal. The woman didn't even react to the nakedness around her and found it completely normal to push my hand to her chest while scrubbing me. Then, she scrubbed my sides and my back, then washed me off with warm water. Each of the girls went next and we got more comfortable with the idea as time passed. We helped one another wash our hair, following the examples of the women to our left, and then we just sat in the steam and relaxed for a while. We did get some stares, I assume because of our light complexion (and our constant laughing and joking). We left about an hour and a half later. We went back into the changing room and redressed, then walked back to the hotel. Our hair was wet, but we were still slightly warm.
The thing I found most interesting was that the women were so open with one another, more so than in America. They cover themselves in the male public space, but are extremely liberal and comfortable with their bodies in the private space. They are not ashamed of their bodies, as many women are in the states, and they celebrate them in the hamaam. The woman next to me, for example, was with her teenage daughter. I was awed at how comfortable they were with one another and their own bodies. They did not hide themselves when strangers came in like I was inclined to do. Even more shocking was when I saw these two women get redressed – in full head coverings which only showed their eyes. It broke down the stereotypes that Westerners have about the hijab being oppressive. These women were not oppressed – or at least not in the hamaam. They were carefree and happy.
I wish I was as comfortable with my appearance as these women were. They celebrate their bodies and their curves for exactly what they are and do not hide the imperfections. I hope one day I can be as confident as these magnificent women.
The hamaam is the Moroccan bath house. It can be a Roman type, which is like a steam room with buckets of water, or a Turkish style with pools that you sit in. We went to the Roman style hamaam. Typically there are 3 rooms - the hot room, the medium room, and the cold room. You walk into the hamaam and there is a seating area where you strip and leave your clothes. You must keep on your underwear, but nothing else. We tried going in with undershirts and they made us strip them off in the medium room and them took them away. The cold room is the first room you enter and it is slightly warmer than outside, which is freezing!!!! Next you enter the medium room, where most people hang out. We stayed in this room, which was steaming, but comfortable. The hot room was so hot it was hard to breathe in the steam, but women were in that room too. We sat on short tiles benches that lines the walls and women (in only undies mind you) carried over buckets of hot and cold water. We were told to mix the temperatures and wash ourselves.
At first we didn't do anything but stare. We were practically naked, with 20 or so conservative Muslim women staring back at us all in their underwear. At first I was self conscious, but I got over that real quick when one of the women came over, sat next to me, and began scrubbing me. No joke! Here I am, with a naked woman holding my arm out on her chest and scrubbing my dead skin off. I was more than shocked, but none of the other Moroccans were, so I assumed this was normal. The woman didn't even react to the nakedness around her and found it completely normal to push my hand to her chest while scrubbing me. Then, she scrubbed my sides and my back, then washed me off with warm water. Each of the girls went next and we got more comfortable with the idea as time passed. We helped one another wash our hair, following the examples of the women to our left, and then we just sat in the steam and relaxed for a while. We did get some stares, I assume because of our light complexion (and our constant laughing and joking). We left about an hour and a half later. We went back into the changing room and redressed, then walked back to the hotel. Our hair was wet, but we were still slightly warm.
The thing I found most interesting was that the women were so open with one another, more so than in America. They cover themselves in the male public space, but are extremely liberal and comfortable with their bodies in the private space. They are not ashamed of their bodies, as many women are in the states, and they celebrate them in the hamaam. The woman next to me, for example, was with her teenage daughter. I was awed at how comfortable they were with one another and their own bodies. They did not hide themselves when strangers came in like I was inclined to do. Even more shocking was when I saw these two women get redressed – in full head coverings which only showed their eyes. It broke down the stereotypes that Westerners have about the hijab being oppressive. These women were not oppressed – or at least not in the hamaam. They were carefree and happy.
I wish I was as comfortable with my appearance as these women were. They celebrate their bodies and their curves for exactly what they are and do not hide the imperfections. I hope one day I can be as confident as these magnificent women.
Friday, January 9, 2009
I am in Meknes right now. It is sunny and beautiful. The streets are quitet because it is a Friday which is the Muslim holy day. Tonight we go to the hamamm which is the bath house.
I have to start working on my paper so I need to start finding people to interview people tomorrow. Hopefully I can find some bloggers to speak with as well as some students.
Wish me luck!
I have to start working on my paper so I need to start finding people to interview people tomorrow. Hopefully I can find some bloggers to speak with as well as some students.
Wish me luck!
January 9
Ahhhh first week of class is over. God we have learned too much in sooo little time and my brain cant keep up. My family is quizzing me and it is helping, but I have no memory.
It is sooo cold here it is unbelievable. There is no heat here, so its like living in a freezer with blankets which only make it slightly bearable. I am wearing 4 shirts, a sweatshirt, a jacket, jeans,amazingly thick long johns, thick socks, boots, gloves, and a scarf - and I am still frozen!!!
We are leaving for Meknes for the weekend. We are going to the Roman ruins and going to a hamam, where you go into bath houses with a bunch of other women and get naked and scrub. THIS will be very interesting. You wear underwear, but nothing else. awkward.....
It is sooo cold here it is unbelievable. There is no heat here, so its like living in a freezer with blankets which only make it slightly bearable. I am wearing 4 shirts, a sweatshirt, a jacket, jeans,amazingly thick long johns, thick socks, boots, gloves, and a scarf - and I am still frozen!!!
We are leaving for Meknes for the weekend. We are going to the Roman ruins and going to a hamam, where you go into bath houses with a bunch of other women and get naked and scrub. THIS will be very interesting. You wear underwear, but nothing else. awkward.....
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Kooli!!!!
Breakfast: homemade strawberry jelly spread on warm bread out of the oven, nutella type stuff, lots of tea, coffee, avocado juice, and cheese. YUM YUM
Lunch: some sort of communal dish with meat and beans or potatoes, lots of homemade bread and jelly, salad, and tea
Dinner: pasta with bread
After every meal we have tea and tangerines. LOTS of tangerines. I am surprised I have no canker sores being that I eat at least 5 a day. YUMMY!
The communal dish doesnt gross me out too badly anymore. We have our own "sides" of the dish that we stick to, so its not too bad. They all drink out of one cup, which I dont do, but they dont seem to mind. The food is l'dit! Delicious! She is the best cook I have ever met and I can't get enough! There went the diet.
Luckily I get enough exercise walking 30 minutes back and forth to school. I make at least 4 trips a day, so its good. And I have to walk fast because of the dumb boys, so its almost like powerwalking. hahaha.
Anna will be living with me after all. The girl she was living with decided to move in with a couple of other girls and Anna is moving in with me. She loves the family and they love her, so it all works out.
Leila is sooo sweet. She called me her daughter today and I cant help but giving her huge hugs whenever I see her. Ryan is my "teacher" because he quizzes me at night and teases me about my pronunciation - probably because I kick his butt at cards. hehe. Abdul Ali is learning more English at night too, when they test him after testing me. He is doing great.
The stupid boys keep cat calling and I had one follow me to school today. I told Leila about it and she gave me a ring to wear on my left hand so they wouldn't bother me. She also told me to say "seer bHaalk" which means go away.
Lunch: some sort of communal dish with meat and beans or potatoes, lots of homemade bread and jelly, salad, and tea
Dinner: pasta with bread
After every meal we have tea and tangerines. LOTS of tangerines. I am surprised I have no canker sores being that I eat at least 5 a day. YUMMY!
The communal dish doesnt gross me out too badly anymore. We have our own "sides" of the dish that we stick to, so its not too bad. They all drink out of one cup, which I dont do, but they dont seem to mind. The food is l'dit! Delicious! She is the best cook I have ever met and I can't get enough! There went the diet.
Luckily I get enough exercise walking 30 minutes back and forth to school. I make at least 4 trips a day, so its good. And I have to walk fast because of the dumb boys, so its almost like powerwalking. hahaha.
Anna will be living with me after all. The girl she was living with decided to move in with a couple of other girls and Anna is moving in with me. She loves the family and they love her, so it all works out.
Leila is sooo sweet. She called me her daughter today and I cant help but giving her huge hugs whenever I see her. Ryan is my "teacher" because he quizzes me at night and teases me about my pronunciation - probably because I kick his butt at cards. hehe. Abdul Ali is learning more English at night too, when they test him after testing me. He is doing great.
The stupid boys keep cat calling and I had one follow me to school today. I told Leila about it and she gave me a ring to wear on my left hand so they wouldn't bother me. She also told me to say "seer bHaalk" which means go away.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
So - update time. I moved in with my family two days ago. They are wonderful people. They have two girls, 9 and 17, and a 15 year old boy. Some speak a little english, but I must work on my arabic.
I am in love with morocco and although I love you all back home, I dont want to come back just yet. Every sense is alive here and I cannot take it all in. My journal cant keep up with my stories and my camera is already full of photos. I am trying to load them all up, but it is taking too long, so I will probably buy a cd to put them in.
My family does have internet but I do not want to impose so I will not be on all the time or for long.
Oh and I had fried sardines for lunch yesterday...and I liked um.
Ok - must run to class down stairs. The lab isnt open between 12-3 for lunch. In fact, the whole town shuts down.
b'salama!
(goodbye)
<3 bryanna
I am in love with morocco and although I love you all back home, I dont want to come back just yet. Every sense is alive here and I cannot take it all in. My journal cant keep up with my stories and my camera is already full of photos. I am trying to load them all up, but it is taking too long, so I will probably buy a cd to put them in.
My family does have internet but I do not want to impose so I will not be on all the time or for long.
Oh and I had fried sardines for lunch yesterday...and I liked um.
Ok - must run to class down stairs. The lab isnt open between 12-3 for lunch. In fact, the whole town shuts down.
b'salama!
(goodbye)
<3 bryanna
Sunday, January 4, 2009
photos
Here's to the long journey
Grandma and I before leaving
Dad and I before leaving
Dad took a photo of himself....so I put it up
View from the plane over Europe
Friday, January 2, 2009
Day 1
So, I am finally in morocco! I am sitting at the hotel with a stupid computer that has all the keys in wrong order. Stupid french keyboard thingy!
So Ive had a long day. So, my first view of france was the french countryside with white homes topped with dark blue roofs. It was soo beautiful but really barren. Morocco was the same way, but much greener like Ireland.
They lost my bags, or more accurately they are on the other flight that I would have had to have taken if I had missed the first one. Apparently I beat the bags to the plane. So now I cant pick them up until tomorrow because the train does not run after 11 and I am not going to pay that much for a taxi.
The language barrier is very unhelpful while traveling. I had to run through the Paris airport and I was soo rushed I could only remember two french words. So merci and pardon were my guides for the trip, which made a lot of the French anger. No one said anything but I was tactfully ignored on the plane for 30 minutes as I rang the help bell for a drink of water. Darn people! I was trying but I just couldnt think on that little of sleep.
Interesting stories - one lady got kicked off the plane and detained in Paris after she threw a hissy fit when the crew wouldnt let her go to the restroom during our descent. At least, that is the just of it. It was in French, but I am a good easedropper and the guy next to me was explaining it to another person. hehe
You'll love this one dad. I met an interesting person on the train who talked to me in English after trying in Arabic and then French. We talked politics and the present state of the American persona in the Middle East. When he left he gave me his number and said if I needed anything in Casablanca I should call. Haha.... Not an hour into Morocco and Im getting numbers. Dont worry dad - Im waiting for the 3 camels (and to those who dont get my dad and our sense of humor - this is not a racist comments just and inside joke). I also got a guy who told me I was "a beautiful Western woman" when I went into a shop to buy a soda. Gosh this is funny.
More to come soon but I need to let Cameron use the computer.....
Until next time - Au Revior!
So Ive had a long day. So, my first view of france was the french countryside with white homes topped with dark blue roofs. It was soo beautiful but really barren. Morocco was the same way, but much greener like Ireland.
They lost my bags, or more accurately they are on the other flight that I would have had to have taken if I had missed the first one. Apparently I beat the bags to the plane. So now I cant pick them up until tomorrow because the train does not run after 11 and I am not going to pay that much for a taxi.
The language barrier is very unhelpful while traveling. I had to run through the Paris airport and I was soo rushed I could only remember two french words. So merci and pardon were my guides for the trip, which made a lot of the French anger. No one said anything but I was tactfully ignored on the plane for 30 minutes as I rang the help bell for a drink of water. Darn people! I was trying but I just couldnt think on that little of sleep.
Interesting stories - one lady got kicked off the plane and detained in Paris after she threw a hissy fit when the crew wouldnt let her go to the restroom during our descent. At least, that is the just of it. It was in French, but I am a good easedropper and the guy next to me was explaining it to another person. hehe
You'll love this one dad. I met an interesting person on the train who talked to me in English after trying in Arabic and then French. We talked politics and the present state of the American persona in the Middle East. When he left he gave me his number and said if I needed anything in Casablanca I should call. Haha.... Not an hour into Morocco and Im getting numbers. Dont worry dad - Im waiting for the 3 camels (and to those who dont get my dad and our sense of humor - this is not a racist comments just and inside joke). I also got a guy who told me I was "a beautiful Western woman" when I went into a shop to buy a soda. Gosh this is funny.
More to come soon but I need to let Cameron use the computer.....
Until next time - Au Revior!
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Leaving on a jet plane
So here I sit, in the LAX airport, trying to figure out this stupid internet kiosk thing. So far, the trip is going smoothly. All bags checked, only slightly long lines, and expensive food as usual.
Can you believe I actually going to AFRICA!!!!!!!! Wow. I can't wait to walk through the open air markets, smelling the insense and taking in all the sights and sounds.
For now though, I shall leave this kiosk with 20 seconds left on my dollar and bit you adeiu. See you in Casablanca!
Au revior!
Can you believe I actually going to AFRICA!!!!!!!! Wow. I can't wait to walk through the open air markets, smelling the insense and taking in all the sights and sounds.
For now though, I shall leave this kiosk with 20 seconds left on my dollar and bit you adeiu. See you in Casablanca!
Au revior!
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